Africa Safari: Kenya - Part 2

Day 12: Travel to Lake Nakuru, Kenya

It was another early start on Wednesday, as we departed Jinja and returned to Kenya. We were up at 4.40am and left the camping ground at 6am. We crossed the border from Uganda into Kenya in the morning and continued driving east towards Lake Nakuru.

We stopped for lunch at around 1pm at a shopping centre in a decent sized town (at about 2000m altitude), apparently home to many of Kenya's famous long distance runners! The supermarket at the shopping centre was pretty good - we found a fridge magnet there and also stocked up on water and snacks.

We drove for another three hours after lunch. We had some music playing in the truck, which made the trip more enjoyable. We passed a few villages that looked relatively prosperous - the people were well dressed, there were children in proper school uniforms and there were lots of market stalls selling fresh fruit and veges. We could not get over how green parts of Kenya are - such lush and fertile farmland, pretty hills and mountains - almost New Zealand-like. Most of Uganda and parts of Kenya (at high altitude) get a lot of rain, which is great for the farmland but bad for our leaky tents!

We arrived at our camp site at Lake Nakuru at around 6pm, set up our soggy tents and had a few drinks in the bar. Tim played a bit of table tennis with Andrew, which turned out to be a surprisingly skillful game. Dinner was delicious again - and we ate it sitting around an open camp fire.

Day 13: Lake Nakuru game drive

We had the luxury of a "sleep-in" today...until 6.10am. We also had a cooked breakfast and hot showers, so it was a great start to the day. We left the camp site at 7.45am and made the short drive to Nakuru town. It was a public holiday in Kenya, so not much was open. We had a leisurely walk through town and checked out a few shops. Tim found a barber and got his hair cut - quite an experience! We got mobbed by street vendors when we tried to get back on the truck, so we bought some postcards, a Kenyan head scarf and some cold drinks off them.

We then drove into the Lake Nakuru National Park. Lake Nakuru is one of the Rift Valley soda lakes, which lies about 100km north-west of Nairobi. The lake's abundance of algae attracts vast quantities of flamingos - apparently more than one million flamingos inhabit the National Park! The park is also famous for its pelicans and other birds, as well as black and white rhino.

There were literally hundreds of birds huddled on the edge of the lake, although not so many flamingos for some reason. We're not sure where you hide a million flamingos, but we only saw a couple of dozen of them all day! We did, however, see hundreds of pelicans, storks and many other birds! We saw plenty of gazelles and impala, zebras, waterbucks, giraffes (these were Rothschild's giraffes, which are a different subspecies from the Masai giraffes), buffaloes and...wait for it...rhinos!!!

At first we saw a few rhinos off in the distance, which didn't make for great photos. Then later in the afternoon we got a magnificent view of a rhino close up on the side of the road. All of the rhinos we saw were of the white rhino subspecies, which can be distinguished from the much rarer black rhino by its square upper lip and a hump on the back of its neck. The white rhino is not actually white at all - it is grey. As you can see from the photo below, they are massive animals, measuring 3.5 - 4.5 metres in length, weighing up to 4 tonnes and usually sporting a huge horn on their noses. The rhino sighting completed our Big Five game viewing, which was very exciting!

We left the game park and drove for 1.5 hours south-east to Lake Naivasha, arriving at our camping ground just after dark and in drizzly rain. We had a nice dinner of beef stew and pasta and then had a couple of quiets in the bar.

Day 14: Lake Naivasha

Friday was a lazy day at the campsite at Lake Naivasha. There were some optional activities available, which some of our group did - a bike ride around the lake to see some birds or a short hike to see some birds. We opted to stay at the camp, so we had a sleep in and a late breakfast at 8am - delicious french toast and banana.

It was a scorching hot morning, so we dried out the tent and did some washing. It was very peaceful around the camp, aside from an aggressive turkey, who spent the morning chasing a female turkey around the lawn and hissing and gobbling at us. Quite amusing. We watched the third/fourth playoff of the Rugby World Cup, on the TV in the bar. We wanted Wales to win, but they played badly and Australia won a disappointing game 21-18.

After lunch, there was a spot of rain, but it cleared up quickly. We had a couple of drinks in the bar, played some pool, and tried to have a game of back yard cricket - but the resident campsite dogs were very sharp in the field, grabbing the ball at every opportunity and not relinquishing it without a fight. We really enjoyed hanging out with our group - we were very lucky to have such a quality group.

Dinner was steak, potatoes and salad. Our tour leader, Mwangi, tried to get us to go a "nightclub" next to the camping ground, but it wasn't getting started until after 11pm (way past our African bedtime), so we bailed and went to bed. A few of the guys went along and said it was lame - hardly anyone else there.

Day 15: Nairobi

On Saturday morning, we had a short drive from Lake Naivasha to Nairobi. We left at 7.45am and arrived in the capital at 9.30am. We dropped off three of our group who were leaving the tour at that stage - it was a bit sad to see them go, but on the up side, Tim inherited a head torch from Max, who no longer needed it. We then drove to our campsite and dropped off our gear before heading to an elephant orphanage.

The elephant orphanage was amazing. They look after baby elephants who are literally orphaned, or who get lost and cannot find their family, or who get trapped, fall down holes, etc. Then they raise them at the orphanage until they are old enough to be released back into the wild. We had a talk from the staff of the orphanage, explaining what the elephants eat and drink, the activities they do at the orphanage and stories of where some of the elephants had come from.

We then watched the elephants roll around in the mud, kick a soccer ball around and drink milk from large plastic bottles. Interestingly, they feed the elephants human baby formula imported from the UK, as they obviously do not have access to elephant milk and they cannot use cow or goat milk etc, as the elephants are badly allergic to it and it will kill them. The orphanage also houses a black rhino, which is almost completely blind, meaning it could not survive in the wild. It was nice to see a black rhino for the first time (black rhinos are extremely rare) but we felt very sorry for it.

Next stop was a giraffe centre, where we had the opportunity to feed some of the giraffes. The giraffe centre backs on to the Nairobi Nature Park, where animals can roam relatively freely in a large enclosed park. When the giraffes want to, they can wander over to the giraffe centre to be fed or just hang out with some humans!

We went up on to a raised platform and fed some animal pellets to two of the giraffes, a very young one and a 16 year old giraffe called Laura, who proved to be a hit with one of our tour group, Sara. While the rest of us fed Laura pellets from our hands (giraffe tongues are very rough and scratchy), Sara stuck a pellet in between her teeth and Laura ate it from there, effectively giving Sara a big kiss and covering her face with giraffe slobber - photo below. It was very cool to see giraffes so close up - they really are the most elegant of all the animals.

After a brief visit to a large shopping centre, we headed back to camp and chilled out at the bar for a couple of hours. In the evening, a group of us went to a restaurant called "Carnivore" - needless to say, it was a meat restaurant! It was an amazing place - all you can eat meat for a set price, and it was all types of meat. We had beef, lamb, pork, chicken, turkey, crocodile, ostrich, different types of sausages and even ox testicles! We ate so much we could barely move. Tim had stomach cramps all night - but it was worth it.

At such a brilliant place as Carnivore, you need a strategy. Tim and Dean had it all sorted. You don't go near the soup, bread, potato or veges. These are all tricks - just fillers. Once you steer clear of those, you can focus on the meat. Also, you need to pace yourself - there's no hurry at Carnivore. So there you go, when you go to Carnivore, you have a few tips from the experts.







Tim at the
barber












Lake
Nakuru -
birds










Our
truck












Pelicans
and
flamingos












Flamingos












Us at Lake
Nakuru













White
rhinos












Elegance













Awesome
white
rhino










Lake
Nakuru
camp











Elephant
orphanage












Elephant
baby
drinking














Neens and
Megs















Elephant
soccer












Black
rhino













Laura -
elegant















A giraffe
kiss for
Sara











Megs
feeding
giraffe












Carni-
vore












Lake
Nakuru

Africa Safari: Rwanda

Day 8: Rwanda

After an exhausting day visiting gorillas, we had another big day ahead with an optional day trip to Rwanda, which most of our tour group (16 of us) decided to do. We were up at 5am, had breakfast, made a packed lunch and then set off in two minvans. It took about an hour to get to the border, but then it was a frustrating process to actually enter Rwanda. The whole border crossing consumed over two hours of our day - partly because of inefficient border control staff and partly because the minivan operators did not have adequate insurance on their vans and were not allowed to cross the border until they paid bribes to the appropriate people. It did not help that people were queue jumping in front of us at every opportunity and that many of them stunk of the worst body odour imaginable.

Rwanda is a country in central Africa with a population of approximately 11.5 million people. The country is very small and is one of the most densely populated in Africa. Rwanda is located just below the equator and is bordered by Uganda to the north, Tanzania to the east, Burundi to the south and the Democratic Republic of Congo to the west. Rwanda is at high altitude with a geography dominated by mountains in the west, savanna in the east and lakes throughout the country - it is beautiful. Rwanda gained its independence from Belgium in 1962. The official languages are English, French and Kinyarwanda. The capital and largest city is Kigali, which has a population of about 1 million people.

Once we eventually made it across the border, we drove for another two hours to the capital city of Kigali. The countryside was very green and hilly and there were plenty of people working in the tea fields. It all looked very gren and lush. Kigali itself was a pretty city: fairly clean even though busy. There was a big flood across one of the main streets, not sure what caused it, but we just drove through the water like everyone else. Nobody seemed too concerned! Our first stop in Kigali was at the Museum of Genocide.

Rwandans form three groups - the Hutu, Tutsi and Twa. The Hutu are the largest group, making up over 80% of Rwandans. The division between the Hutu and the next largest group, the Tutsi is based more on social class than ethnicity. The Rwandan Genocide of 1994 was the culmination of longstanding ethnic competition and tensions between the minority Tutsi, who had controlled power for centuries, and the majority Hutu peoples, who had come to power in the rebellion of 1959–62 and overthrown the Belgian-sponsored Tutsi monarchy.

In the space of just three months in 1994, over 1 million (mainly Tutsi) people were systematically beaten, tortured, raped and murdered by the Hutu, while the UN (and the rest of the world) stood back and watched. Men, women and children were beaten and hacked to death with clubs and machetes. Many more Rwandans died in the refugee crisis that follwed the end of the genocide, as there was insufficient humanitarian aid for the huge numbers of refugees, leaving many to die of hunger and disease.

The Museum of Genocide was well presented and we learned a lot about the Rwandan genocide and how it had come about. There were some very disturbing photos and stories of the horrific events that had unfolded in the beautiful city around us. The museum also had information on other genocides from around the world, including the Bosnian massacre of the 1990s, which we had learned about when we visited Sarajevo. Outside the museum there were some memorial gardens dedicated to the victims of the genocide and next to the gardens were rows of mass graves, which contain thousands of bodies. They are covered with huge slabs of concrete.

After our museum visit, we drove about an hour east of Kigali to the Nyarubuye Catholic Church, the site of a massacre in which 10,000 civilians were murdered in the space of a couple of days. Thousands of Tutsi has fled to the church for refuge, but its defences were breached by Hutu attackers and the sheltering Tutsi were killed with grenades and guns. Horrifically, many of the women were brutally raped and tortured before dying and some of the babies and children were grabbed by their legs and smashed against the brick walls, which still bear their blood.

Along with bloodstains on the walls, there are bullet holes and grenades explosion marks all over the church, making for a highly disturbing atmosphere. The clothing from the victims has been kept and is heapped all over the floor and the seats in church to show the magnitude of the assault and as a memorial to the victims. It was extremely difficult hearing about what had happened in the church and seeing the remnants of mass murder all around us. There are mass graves beneath and behind the church. In the basement beneath the church, there is a memorial to the victims, which shows cracked and broken skulls and bones of some of the victims - rows and rows of skulls and bones. It was all very upsetting, but we appreciated the opportunity to learn about an episode of history that we previously did not know much about.

Our final stop on our whirlwind tour of Rwanda was back in Kigali, at the luxurious Sabena Hotel des Mille Collines. It was there that a Rwandan man, Paul Rusesabagina, used his influence and connection as manager of the hotel to save 1,268 Tutsis and moderate Hutus during the genocide. He has since been internationally honoured for his bravery and courage. In 2004 a film called "Hotel Rwanda" was released, which was based on Rusesabagina's efforts.

We had a look around the hotel, which was very nice, and took a few photos before hopping back in the van and heading out of Kigali. It was a fairly long drive back through Rwanda, across the border and then through Uganda back to our camp at Lake Bunyonyi. We were all shattered after not only a big day but such an emotional day learning about the shocking events which took place so recently in our lifetime.

If anyone is interested in learning more about how the genocide came to pass while the world stood by and watched, Megan recommends Romeo Dallaire's "Shake Hands with the Devil: the failure of humanity in Rwanda", detailing account of his time as Force Commander of the UN's peacekeeping mission in Rwanda between 1993 - 1994.

Flood on
Kigali
street












Kigali













Museum
of Genocide











Memorial
garden













Mass
graves











Kigali
again













Nyarubuye
Church












Doors of church
blown open by
grenades















Hotel
Rwanda

Africa Safari: Uganda

Day 5: Travel to Kampala, Uganda

On Wednesday morning, we packed up the tents etc, had breakfast (while a couple of dogs mated across the other side of the campsite, continuing the animal mating theme of the previous few days) and departed the camp at about 6.45am. We continued driving west / north-west across Kenya towards Uganda, and crossed the equator shortly after leaving Kisumu. At about 10am we crossed the border into Uganda and a couple of hours later we stopped in Jinja for lunch.

Uganda is a landlocked country in East Africa and is known as the "Pearl of Africa". It is bordered on the east by Kenya, on the north by South Sudan, on the west by the Democratic Republic of Congo, on the southwest by Rwanda, and on the south by Tanzania. The southern part of the country includes a substantial portion of Lake Victoria, which is also shared by Kenya and Tanzania. Uganda gained independence from Britain in 1962, its population is around 34 million, the official languages are English and Swahili, and the capital city is Kampala, which is home to 1.7 million people.

Jinja is situated in south-eastern Uganda on the shores of Lake Victoria and near to the source of the River Nile! Jinja is the largest town in Uganda (it is the second biggest commercial centre in the country behind Kampala, which is Uganda's only city!). We would be staying in Jinja on our way back through Uganda but for now we just had lunch at the campsite (including delicious raspberry fanta) and kept on driving.

Uganda is also at high altitude and it gets a lot of rain, so the countryside was very lush and green. We passed a lot of tea and coffee plantations as we drove through the country. Tea and coffee are amongst the biggest export goods produced in Uganda. We arrived in Kampala at about 4pm. The traffic was horrendous in the city and it took us a long time to drive to a shopping centre for supplies and then on to our camping ground. As we were driving we saw the aftermath of an accident. It looked like a man had been hit by a car and was lying on the road in a huge pool of blood. He was clearly dead.

The camping ground was fairly average and it was very full. We pitched our tents and got our gear sorted and then had a delicious dinner of chicken, veges and rice. We had a few drinks and then went to bed. It rained heavily in the night and our tent leaked. Not impressed.

Day 6: Travel to Lake Bunyonyi

All of our things were wet in the morning thanks to the leaking tent. The camp was also very muddy in the morning, so it was very messy all round. We left the camp at 6am to avoid busy traffic in Kampala. It was another big driving day, as we continued across Uganda to Lake Bunyoni in the south-west of the country, where we would be based for the next four nights.

We stopped in the town close to the camping ground and got some more supplies for the days ahead. Sadly, it was raining when we arrived at the camping ground and the grass where we were supposed to pitch our tents looked very wet. Megan and I (and most of the others in our tour party) opted to upgrade to cabins. As it turned out, we ended up sharing an actual house with Dean and Jeanelle, an Aussie couple on the tour. The house was amazing - it had two bedrooms (fully equipped with beds), a kitchen, a large lounge and a bathroom (with a shower that had hot water!).

We did some washing, dried out some of our wet clothes, charged our electronics and bonded with our new flatmates and then headed to the bar for a few drinks before dinner. It was Neena's birthday, and we had arranged with our chef Mwai to get a birthday cake for her - it was really fun and hopefully she had an awesome birthday in Uganda!

Day 7: Gorilla trekking

Lake Bunyonyi is situated almost 2,000m above sea level, so the nights were very cold, even in the house! Friday, Day 7 of our tour, was a very special day. It was the day we were going gorilla trekking - one of the big highlights of the whole tour. We woke at 4.30am, had breakfast and made a packed lunch at 5am and left the camp in minivans at 5.30am. We drove for nearly two and a half hours over very hilly, winding and generally crappy roads until we reached the Wildlife Authority hut, which was the starting point for our trek. The minvan driver was funny - he played a mixture of Eminem songs and some Whitney Houston power ballads - nice.

When we arrived at the hut, our gorilla guide gave us a talk about the gorillas and their environment, etc. Mountain gorillas are extremely rare - as of 2010 the estimated total number worldwide was 790. They are found only in four national parks in central Africa, two of which are situated in south-west Uganda, one in Rwanda and one in the Democratic Republic of Congo. We were in the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, which is close to the border with DR Congo. The gorillas are constantly on the move and often roam across the border into other national parks in DR Congo or Rwanda, which could have been costly in terms of more visa fees if we had had to follow them across the border. But thankfully, our gorillas were in Uganda that day.

A dedicated team of gorilla trackers/guides has been working in this area for years, learning about the gorillas' habits and movements and getting them used to human interaction. Less than half of the gorilla families in Bwindi have been "trained" for human contact, so these are the only families that are visited by tourists. The "training" sounds intense. The guides visit a new gorilla family every day for months and months until the gorillas are used to having humans around, which then makes it safe for tourists to visit them. Apparently the guides know when the gorillas are ready for tourists when they stop charging the guides!

The Wildlife Authority takes the protection and conservation of the gorillas extremely seriously. As gorillas share much of our DNA, anyone with the slightest cold or transferable illness is not allowed to go trekking. There is also a strict limit to the amont of people visiting the gorillas - there is a maximum of eight tourists per group and only one group will visit a particular gorilla family each day. On top of that, so that the gorillas do not get too used to the presence of humans, the maximum time a group can spend with a gorilla family is one hour. As the gorillas are constantly on the move, there is no guarantee you will even see them at all - so the US$500 gorilla permit fee per person and the potential for an eight-hour trek is a bit of a gamble! It should be noted that the gorilla permit fee is used exclusively for the conservation of the gorillas.

After learning more about the gorillas and getting a safety briefing, we set off with our gorilla guides, hiking through the dense rainforest of Bwindi. The name Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is appropriate - the trek was very tough. The terrain was very hilly and there was thick bush often full of thorns that we had to navigate through. We had to wear gloves to protect our hands as well as long pants and long sleeves to protect against the thorns and insect bites, so we ended up getting very hot and sweaty, which was quite uncomfortable. On top of that, the recent rain had meant that the track was very slippery and parts of the forest were very muddy and boggy - we often sunk ankle deep into a pool of mud! Then there were a lot of strange insects around, including processions of red ants, that we had to avoid stepping on, or they would crawl up our legs and bite! We even tucked our pants into our socks to keep them at bay! The forest was incredibly wild and harsh.

We trekked for about two hours to get to the gorillas and when we found them, they were hanging out on a very steep bank, which made following them through the bush and trying to take photos of them rather difficult. Our gorilla family had 23 members, which included four silverbacks (adult males), a few blackbacks (younger males), some females and a few babies. At first the gorillas were well hidden in the thick bush, but eventually we saw quite a few of them out in the open, so we took some good photos - we got scarily close to a few of them! Some of them moved past us, just a few metres away at times. The gorillas made some interesting grunting noises, but they seemed to be very relaxed and comfortable about us being there.

They are huge animals and incredibly powerful. The silverbacks can weigh up to 200kg and their strength and power is amazing. The gorillas did smell quite bad and they had a lot of flies hanging around them. We also had to take care to avoid stepping on a massive gorilla shit at one point. That would have been particularly messy and would have made for an uncomfortable ride back to camp in the minivan.

It was an incredible experience to see these animals in their natural environment and to be so close to them. We were all buzzing after the seeing the gorillas - a real highlight of the trip and something we will all remember forever. Fingers crossed that the numbers of gorillas can bounce back, as it would be a sad day if these beautiful and fascinating creatures were to become extinct.

Once our hour with the gorillas was up, we had a two hour trek back to the hut, during which we stopped and ate our lunch and also got soaked by a torrential downpour. The rain was actually quite nice, as it cooled us down. By the time we got back to the minivan, we stunk of sweat, were soaked, covered in mud and pretty knackered. We then had another two hour drive back to camp to round off a massive day. Needless to say, there was much washing and showering back at camp - we were really thankful that we had upgraded!

Everyone was shattered after dinner - we had one drink and then went to bed early. A few of the tour group, including Neena, were feeling unwell - a combination of early starts, cold temperatures at night, getting soaked in the rain and a massive few days had taken its toll. We all slept like babies.

Day 8: Rwanda

See separate blog entry for Rwanda after this entry.

Day 9: Lake Bunyonyi

After gorilla trekking on Friday and a day trip to Rwanda on Saturday, we were ready for a cruisy day on Sunday and that's exactly what we got. We slept in until 7.45am (huge sleep in) before having breakfast and then getting settled in the bar. It was a very exciting day - Rugby World Cup semi-final day. All Blacks v Australia. There was huge excitement in the camp, as we had three Kiwis and around 10 Aussies in our tour. We were nervous, as we had obviously cocked it up several times before (usually at the semi-final stage, and twice to Australia at the semi-final stage).

We got to watch the game live on TV in the bar and it was an exciting match. New Zealand played well and deserved to win. We were very excited and relieved to win. We tried not to give the Aussies too much crap, as we were outnumbered and we still had a final to go...against the other team renowned for wrecking our World Cups. We had quite a few beers and it got a little messy as the afternoon wore on. After the rugby we were treated to watching our other favourite team, the Arsenal, win 2-1 against Sunderland, to continue their revival after a horror start to the season.

We also did some more washing and packed up our things, ready to move on again tomorrow. It was nice having a relaxing day after a few full on days. Sadly, the camping ground tried to rip us off when we went to pay our bar tab - a trick they tried with several of our tour group. They had added a lot of drinks to our tab, claiming that Tim had drunk about 25 (500ml) beers on Sunday alone. Whilst it had been a rather drunken day, this was ridiculous. We refused to pay for all of them and eventually settled on what was probably a few more than what we had actually drunk, but well short of what they originally claimed. Not cool.

Day 10: Travel to Jinja

Monday was another huge travel day. We woke at 4.45am and departed the camping ground just before 6am. It was a massive drive from west to east across Uganda, to Jinja. We stopped for lunch at a little village that sits on the equator. We got the obligatory photos by the monument marking the equator and we even found a Uganda magnet for the magnet collection at one of the souvenir shops. After lunch, we carried on in the truck.

We stopped in Kampala briefly to get some more Ugandan shillings and some supplies at a supermarket. We then carried on to Jinja, arriving at 5.45pm. Our tent was still wet from the last time we had used it (five days earlier) and it smelled a bit. Not cool. We made sure we put the rain cover on, as the sky looked a little ominous. Dinner was chilli con carne - delicious. We then had a couple of raspberry fantas in the bar. Raspberry fanta really is the best thing in the world. Sadly, Jinja was the only place we ever found it.

It was a fairly early night, but before bedtime, Australian prankster Max rounded up Dean, Troy and Tim and they snuck out of the bar to move Mike's tent further up the hill and behind a big tree. Mike was the sole South African in our tour party and he copped a lot of good-natured flak from the Aussies and Kiwis, but he took it well and gave a fair bit back too! About an hour later, when Mike was ready for bed, he wandered around and around the camping ground looking for his tent, getting gradually more and more annoyed. He claimed that it was not funny, but the rest of us found it hilarious.

Day 11: Jinja

It rained heavily in the night and our tent leaked a bit, despite the rain cover. Thankfully it was fine by the morning. Today was a day of optional activities - some of our tour opted to go white water rafting in the River Nile, while others did some painting at a school as part of a community project. Megan and Tim and a couple of others decided to chill out at the camping ground instead.

We got up just before 8am and were treated to fried eggs and spaghetti on toast for breakfast. After showering we headed to the bar, where there was free WIFI. We sent a few emails, saved our photos to our memory stick and sorted out a few admin jobs. The bar at the camping ground was really nice and it looked out to the River Nile. It was a scorching hot day - we took advantage of the washing service at the camping ground, which was quite cheap, and got all of our clothes clean.

There was a big thunder storm in the afternoon, so we sheltered in the bar while it poured with rain. There was much raspberry fanta consumed. Dinner was fish, potatoes and mixed veges. It rained again in the evening - at that stage we were looking forward to leaving Uganda and getting back to some dry weather! Despite the leaky tent, we had a pretty good sleep. It was another early start coming up and then back into Kenya!

Shops on
the side of
the road

Mountains
around
Lake
Bunyonyi

Trekking in
Bwindi
Impenetrable
National park

Bwindi
Forest

Gorillas

Lake
Bunyonyi

Uganda's
country-
side

A cute
little
Ugandan
girl

Crossing
the
equator

Roadside
shacks

Locals
doing
their
thing

Shops in
Kampala

River
Nile,
Jinja

Camping
ground
bar,
Jinja

Our tents
in Jinja